Now, finally, after years of TeX, LaTeX, and PDFTeX, as the result of extensive research in PDF viewing, now, that soon I will no longer need it, the solution appears at oriental horizons: Sumatra PDF. I saw this light only with the help of Paul Pearson, who opened my eyes. Thanks so much!
Sumatra PDF viewer unites the impossible: Displaying PDF well and fast, remembering the window position and text zoom, and – tada – updating the display, when the underlying PDF file changes. I am going to kiss your feet, developers.
So things can be done, even though Adobe thinks they are impossible!